The men’s fashion market is booming globally; it is the most important event of the start of the season 2023.
(Excélsior).- After a six-year absence, French house Saint Laurent returns Tuesday to Paris Men’s Fashion Week, the most important event of the 2023 season opener, with 48 runway shows and dozens of presentations.
Saint Laurent has doubled its sales in the last five years and under the guidance of creator Anthony Vaccarello has diversified its clientele, with off-season shows, in particular ignoring the Paris Fashion Week.
Other brands, on the contrary, come to the event with the energy of debutants, such as the British Grace Wales Bonner, winner in 2016 of the LVMH prize (the most important fashion and luxury consortium in the world) for young creators.
This creator, who combines the sober British cut with West Indian colors, will parade for the first time physically in Paris.
Dior Homme led by Kim Jones, the American Rick Owens, Givenchy piloted by Matthew M. William, and the British Paul Smith will return to offer their creations after a complicated year in 2022 for the fashion world, with changes in the leadership of some houses that changed their artistic direction.
Louis Vuitton lost its artistic director for men’s fashion, Virgil Abloh, in November 2021 and has yet to name a successor.
For this Fashion Week, it has invited Colm Dillane, founder of the KidSuper brand, which is distinguished by a casual streetwear line. KidSuper will also be on the catwalk on Saturday 21.
Spain’s Arturo Obegero will also return to present his creations.
Before the Paris Fashion Week will be held in Milan, where Gucci also returns, after the unexpected departure of its artistic soul, Alessandro Michele, at the end of last year, is a creator who is not afraid to mix genres and styles.
Rise of men’s fashion
“Saint Laurent, Gucci, Givenchy work almost better for men than for women. Today, fashion houses are interested in developing men’s fashion, which has its own codes,” Alice Feillard, buying director at Galeries Lafayette, told AFP.
The men’s fashion market is in full growth, assures this expert. “We’ve been noticing it for 2 or 3 years, and it continues to grow exponentially,” she adds.
Even in underwear, the men’s market is growing: in the first ten months of 2022, it gained 3.3%, to 400 million in January, compared to a growth of 2.5% for women’s lingerie, which in any case has a much more considerable turnover: 1.5 billion euros (about 1650 million dollars).
Givenchy has renounced haute couture but proposes men’s fashion since the arrival in 2020 of the American Matthew Williams.
Maison Margiela will also return to Fashion Week, under the artistic direction of the once-defenestrated John Galiano.
Another designer attracting attention is Emily Bode, chosen designer of the year in 2022 in the United States, and known for her use of recycled materials.
In a similar vein is Marine Serre, another woman who dresses men with a casual, street style, who last year starred in a spectacular fashion show in a sports stadium in Paris.